Cured&Oak smoked Roe deer loin,with micro herbs and pickled carrots

Wednesday, 15th May, 2013

The Ethicurean Cookbook


So this w

So this week we’re devoting our blog posts to The Ethicurean Cookbook: Recipes, Foods and Spirituous Liquors, From Our Bounteous Walled Garden In The Several Seasons of The Year. A cookbook birthed from the practices and principles of The Ethicurean restaurant and written by the four people who run it: Matthew Pennington, Iain Pennington, Paûla Zarate and Jack Adair Bevan.

The Ethicurean Cookbook is a gorgeous recreation of a year in the life of The Ethicurean, near Bristol, England, which runs a seasonal menu from local foods. Its Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter chapters highlight what’s growing locally to the restaurant, so recipes are as diverse and enchanting as Elderflower and Lavender Marshmallows and Spiced Ginger Beer in Summer to Sea Robin with Fennel Butter Sauce and Herbed Pink Firs and Milk Stout and Chocolate Steamed Pudding in Winter.

We asked four of our food loving friends to take on a recipe each and report back. We tried to stay seasonal ourselves and kept to recipes from the book’s Spring chapter.

Here’s how our first recipe challenger got on.

Claudia is a cook, a local food champion, and lives in Scotland.

She chose The Ethicurean’s ‘Smoked Roe Deer Loin with Wild Rocket, Clamped Carrots, Honeyed Walnuts and Wood Sorrel’.

A real preparation recipe with cooking challenges such as curing, pickling and smoking, but Claudia, likes adventures in food, and was more than up for the task…

Making this recipe was a total delight. We sourced our ingredients from the best producers and suppliers. We got Roe deer from Ochil Foods, micro sorrel from micro herbs specialist Scotherbs, edible flowers and micro rocket from Westlands, and the oak from La Favorita, a pizza place in Leith, where they cook their pizzas in clay ovens.

“We made the rub for the loin and marinated it for 5 days, after we washed it with cold water, patted it dry and hung for 17 hours. The loin transformed into a dark and dry loin with a fantastic smell. Then it was smoked as suggested in the recipe, let to cool and thinly sliced.

The carrots where chopped and pickled in white balsamic, and the walnuts where peeled and candied in muscovado sugar with sea salt and lemon juice. We made a dressing for this salad with walnuts, wild rocket, sea salt, extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. The combination of flavours and textures together was really amazing. You get hints of aniseed, smoke, spices and zingy notes from the sorrel and rocket pesto. The micro herbs add concentrated and deep notes of flavour.

“This is a dish that will definitely make a fantastic starter!”

Many thanks to Claudia for her hours of recipe making magic, to the brilliant suppliers for sharing their produce, and to the Ethicurean for the recipe! 

New recipe, new challenger tomorrow, as we make our second ‘dip and do’ into the wonderful world of The Ethicurean cookbook…

Claudia’s food blog and twitter @JustLoveFood and check out her eggcellent EGG Award project to support local egg farmers and producers

The food and wood for the recipe were sourced from Ochil Foods@ochilfoods, the micro-sorrel from Scotherbs @Scotherbs, the edible flowers and micro-rocket from Westlands @WestLandsWow, and the oak from La Favorita

Take a look around The Ethicurean with us

To buy The Ethicurean Cookbook published by Ebury go to an independent bookstore

To eat at The Ethicurean

To chat to The Ethicurean on twitter @TheEthicurean, @ChefMPennington, @IainPennington, @JackABevan

To chat to us on twitter @foodtravelco







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